Earthy, complex, and only available for around ten or so weeks each year.
The Australian truffle’s distinct flavour profile, aroma, rarity and specific growing conditions make it a delicacy – and in our opinion – a delicious one at that.
With July and August being peak truffle season, chances are you’ll have noticed them popping up on menus lately, including ours, and in even more good news, it’s likely to continue into September this year.
Head Chef, David Ball’s philosophy centres around partnering with local producers who share his passion for both quality and seasonality, and this winter he’s been sourcing Périgord Black Winter Truffles – scientifically known as “Tuber melanosporum” – from Stuart Dunbar at Yarra Valley Truffles.
Grown organically in volcanic red soil, which Stuart tells us is: “acknowledged in Italy as producing better flavour profiles than sedimentary soils,” the truffles are harvested – with the help of his gorgeous dogs, Lani and Jager – at their optimum, ensuring top-notch quality and taste as they reach your kitchen, and ours.
Optimum growth, optimum result
Stuart planted his truffiére in 2006. It produced its first harvest in 2011, and with continued research, production has increased year-on-year ever since.
So, you might say he knows a thing or two about growing these gifts of nature: “It’s primarily about the properties of the soil they grow in: a rich, crumbly vegetable garden soil is ideal,” he explains.
"It’s also important that both dog and human identify the best harvest time, which is when the truffle is fully ripe.
"Continual long-term research has led us to identify when a truffle is naturally ripened to its peak potential – we’ll know if a truffle is under-ripe from its initial aroma, and then the dogs and I will leave it for a week or two, until it reaches full maturity."
The mystery surrounding truffles…
Whether they’ve been freshly grated atop a dish or even infused in a cocktail, you might have found it difficult to pinpoint how truffles actually taste, and according to Stuart, you’re not alone.
“It’s the result of centuries of discussion: the taste of the truffle cannot be described. There are characteristics that are unique to the best quality truffles, including a warm molasses type aroma and a complex, full mouth feel, but truffles truly shine when combined with other foods,” he explains.
“I am fond of saying “truffles are like 1 + 1 = 5, it is bad maths but a fantastic eating experience!"
Looking to cook with truffles? Keep it simple
Given truffles' complex – and as Stuart highlights, difficult to describe – flavours, it’s all about seeking out ingredients that complement them.
"Truffles contain all three umami compounds, which results in a synergy with many simple foods to bring out their full potential. Parmesan cheese, chicken, eggs… They can all reach sublime levels when combined with truffles," he explains.
"Aim for simple pairings that allow the truffle to do what it does best. Elevate the flavours in the dish for a natural synergy.
"Think truffled mashed potato, truffle grated into scrambled eggs, or stirred through a pasta or risotto just before serving."
If you’d prefer to leave the cooking to someone else…
Head up to Level 24 to enjoy Stuart's fresh black truffles as an add on to any dish while truffles are still in season, including our Head Chef, David Ball's new leek creation, which he says is the perfect complement.
For more of Stuart’s story
Visit the Yarra Valley Truffles website
Explore this season's harvests via Instagram
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